The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

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Caramel Brandy Sauce

Make same as Brandy Sauce, substituting brown sugar in place of powdered sugar.

For the Modern Kitchen

A one-line variation that depends entirely on the parent recipe printed just above it in the book. Two things are worth knowing before you start: what the original meant by "powdered sugar," and that no caramel is actually cooked here.

A Little History

Brandy sauce and its stiffer cousin hard sauce are the standard English accompaniments to a boiled or steamed pudding, and they arrived in American cookbooks with the puddings themselves. Nineteenth-century American recipe writing tends to treat them as a family: one base of creamed butter and sugar, then a set of variations in which a single ingredient is swapped. That editorial habit is characteristic of Fannie Farmer's method, which was built on standardised measurement and reproducible base recipes rather than on narrative instruction; once the reader has mastered one sauce, the rest are given as arithmetic. It also reflects a period when brown sugar was cheap, plentiful and less refined than it is now, and when a hot pudding with a spirit-laced sauce closed a great many winter dinners.

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