The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

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Lobster Cream II

1 cup chopped lobster meat 1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon flour 1 teaspoon salt 1/8 teaspoon paprika Few drops onion juice 2 egg yolks 1/3 cup milk 1/3 cup heavy cream White one egg, beaten stiff Cook lobster meat with butter five minutes. Add flour, seasonings, egg yolks, milk, cream beaten until stiff, and white of egg. Fill buttered timbale moulds three-fourths full, set in pan of hot water, cover with buttered paper, and bake until firm. Serve with Lobster Sauce.

Chicken Timbales I Garnish slightly buttered Dario moulds with chopped truffles or slices of truffles cut in fancy shapes. Line with Chicken Force-meat I, fill centres with Creamed Chicken and Mushrooms, to which has been added a few chopped truffles. Cover with Force-meat, and bake same as Lobster Timbales Serve with Béchamel or Yellow Béchamel Sauce. 2 tablespoons butter

For the Modern Kitchen

A savory baked custard set in a water bath — the sort of small entrée that filled the middle of a long Victorian menu. The instructions are compressed almost to shorthand, and the printed page runs on into an unrelated chicken recipe.

A Little History

Timbales -- the word is French for a kettledrum, and the shape of the mould is the usual explanation for the name -- were a fixture of American genteel cooking around 1900, and Fannie Farmer's book gives several of them: lobster, chicken, sweetbread, spinach, halibut. Their appeal was structural as much as culinary: a formal dinner needed an entree between the fish and the roast, and a small moulded custard could be prepared in advance, unmoulded neatly, and sauced at the last minute. That this recipe sits alongside "Lobster Timbales" and several chicken versions shows how systematically the Boston Cooking School treated its recipes as variations on a method rather than as separate dishes.

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