The Butterick Book of Recipes and Household Helps

The pattern people's household book, 1927 — five hundred recipes, then how to lay a table, take out a stain and stock a first-aid cabinet.

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Minced Chicken with Mushrooms

2 cups cooked chicken, fresh or ½ teaspoon salt canned

1 tablespoon butter

1 cup mushrooms

1 tablespoon flour

½ cup milk

¼ teaspoon pepper

Chop chicken moderately fine. Cut mushrooms into small pieces, them boil them in their own liquor for five minutes, then skim out and set aside to keep hot. Combine mushroom liquor and milk, make a white sauce with this liquid and the fat rubbed with the flour. Add mushrooms and chopped chicken, and cook three minutes, stirring continually. Add seasonings and serve on toast.

CREAMED SWEETBREADS (ENTRÉE)

1 pair sweetbreads

1 cup milk or cream

1 tablespoon butter

Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon flour

1 tablespoon parsley

Prepare the sweetbreads and break them into small pieces. Make a white sauce, add the sweetbreads, and as soon as they are heated, season. Serve in pastry shells or on toast.

For the Modern Kitchen

A thrifty made-over dish built on a thin white sauce, printed here with its ingredient list scrambled into two columns by the original typesetting. Untangled, it is straightforward, but two points in the method assume conventions that have since fallen away.

A Little History

The "Made-Over Dishes" chapter belongs to a long tradition of cookbook writing that treated leftovers as a moral matter as much as a culinary one: a household that let cold roast chicken go to waste was failing at its job. The white sauce is the engine of that whole chapter, capable of absorbing any cooked meat, fish or vegetable and returning it to the table on toast or in a pastry shell. The appearance of canned mushrooms and canned chicken alongside fresh points to a period when tinned goods were commonplace in an American kitchen. Sweetbreads sit here as an entrée whose handling was assumed knowledge, which is why the recipe can say "prepare the sweetbreads" and trust the reader to know what that involved.

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