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Minced Chicken with Mushrooms
2 cups cooked chicken, fresh or ½ teaspoon salt canned
1 tablespoon butter
1 cup mushrooms
1 tablespoon flour
½ cup milk
¼ teaspoon pepper
Chop chicken moderately fine. Cut mushrooms into small pieces, them boil them in their own liquor for five minutes, then skim out and set aside to keep hot. Combine mushroom liquor and milk, make a white sauce with this liquid and the fat rubbed with the flour. Add mushrooms and chopped chicken, and cook three minutes, stirring continually. Add seasonings and serve on toast.
CREAMED SWEETBREADS (ENTRÉE)
1 pair sweetbreads
1 cup milk or cream
1 tablespoon butter
Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon flour
1 tablespoon parsley
Prepare the sweetbreads and break them into small pieces. Make a white sauce, add the sweetbreads, and as soon as they are heated, season. Serve in pastry shells or on toast.
A thrifty made-over dish built on a thin white sauce, printed here with its ingredient list scrambled into two columns by the original typesetting. Untangled, it is straightforward, but two points in the method assume conventions that have since fallen away.
- The ingredient list, sorted out2 cups cooked chicken (fresh or canned), 1 cup mushrooms, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 tablespoon flour, ½ cup milk, ½ teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon pepper. The creamed sweetbreads that follow call for 1 pair sweetbreads, 1 cup milk or cream, 1 tablespoon each butter, flour and parsley, and salt and pepper.
- "Boil them in their own liquor" means canned"Boil them in their own liquor" -- The phrase may point to a tin, whose packing liquid is then combined with the milk to make up the sauce; the recipe says 'fresh or canned' only of the chicken, so this is inference rather than instruction. Fresh mushrooms also give up liquid when stewed, which is what older books often mean by 'their own liquor'. If you cook them dry instead, sauté them in a little of the butter and make the sauce liquid up with milk or chicken stock.
- The sauce is deliberately thinThe sauce is on the thin side -- One tablespoon each of butter and flour is thickening ½ cup of milk plus an unmeasured amount of mushroom liquor, so the final consistency depends on how much liquor the mushrooms yield. If the mixture is loose enough to soak straight through the toast, go to 1½ tablespoons of each.
- Three minutes is all the chicken wantsEverything in the pan is already cooked. The three minutes are to heat through and let the flour lose its rawness; longer and the chicken goes stringy and dry.
- Season at the end, as writtenCanned mushroom liquor and canned chicken both carry salt, and the quantities given may be more than you need. Taste before adding the full half teaspoon.
- YieldEnough for four slices of toast as a light supper or luncheon dish, or two as a main course.
- "Prepare the sweetbreads" is doing heavy liftingThe period cook knew this meant soaking in several changes of cold water to draw the blood, blanching in acidulated water, then cooling under a weight and peeling off the membrane. That treatment parboils them; the recipe's instruction to heat them in the sauce assumes it has been done, and merely warming raw sweetbreads through is not enough.
- Buying sweetbreadsA "pair" is the heart and throat sweetbread of one calf, roughly a pound. They are now a special order from a butcher rather than a supermarket staple, and are best used within a day of purchase.
The "Made-Over Dishes" chapter belongs to a long tradition of cookbook writing that treated leftovers as a moral matter as much as a culinary one: a household that let cold roast chicken go to waste was failing at its job. The white sauce is the engine of that whole chapter, capable of absorbing any cooked meat, fish or vegetable and returning it to the table on toast or in a pastry shell. The appearance of canned mushrooms and canned chicken alongside fresh points to a period when tinned goods were commonplace in an American kitchen. Sweetbreads sit here as an entrée whose handling was assumed knowledge, which is why the recipe can say "prepare the sweetbreads" and trust the reader to know what that involved.