The Butterick Cook Book

The pattern company's cookbook, 1911 — thirty-two chapters from appetizers to the fireless cooker.

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Beef Juice

When much nourishment must be given in small compass, the best nurses now prepare beef juice. This is made of the round of beef cut at least an inch thick. Take a piece of the meat about four inches square, place it in a wire broiler, and broil it over a bright fire until both sides have been browned and the meat has been well warmed through to start the juices. If the fire is bright, two minutes of broiling will generally be sufficient. Lay the beef on a plate, sprinkle it with salt, cut it in pieces, place in a small piece of cheesecloth or a presser, and squeeze out all the juice. About three tablespoons of juice will usually result from a piece of meat the size mentioned.

Sufficient juice for two servings is generally prepared at one time, and the second portion will, of course, require warming. This must be done very carefully, as too high a degree of heat will cause the juice to coagulate. Place the juice in a cup, set the cup in boiling water, stir the juice constantly until it is a little above blood heat, and then serve.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is essentially expressed raw beef serum, deliberately kept below the temperature at which its proteins set — which is also below any temperature that would make it safe to drink. It belongs to a period of invalid cookery that predates any understanding of enteric pathogens in beef.

A Little History

Beef juice, beef tea and "essence of beef" were staples of late-nineteenth-century sickroom feeding, and the note that "the best nurses now prepare beef juice" suggests a shift in fashion: long-simmered beef tea had been shown by chemists to contain very little actual protein, mostly salts and extractives, and pressed raw juice was promoted in its place as retaining more of the meat's virtue. The phrase "much nourishment in small compass" is the whole argument — a patient who could swallow only a few spoonfuls was to get concentrated nutriment rather than volume. That reasoning survives in modern enteral nutrition; the method does not, because the recognition of shiga-toxin-producing E. coli in the 1980s came long after this advice was set in type.

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