The Cook Book of Left-Overs

What to do with left-over everything, 1911 — beef to cake, four hundred ways to use what the last meal left behind.

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Salmon Soup

The remnants of any canned or boiled salmon may be used for this. Pick the fish apart and moisten with the liquor in the can and a little warm water, or water in which the fish was boiled. Press st through a purée strainer. There should be one cup fish pulp and liquid. Season with salt and pepper as needed. Make two cups of white sauce No. I (see page 67), add the fish, and heat together, but do not boil. Just before serving add a little well-washed and finely minced parsley, or a tablespoonful of hot green peas. If too thick, thin with a little hot milk.

For the Modern Kitchen

A thin cream soup built on leftover salmon and a basic white sauce. It comes together in about fifteen minutes and lives or dies on not letting it boil.

A Little History

Cook books of left overs belong to a genre that flourished in American and British households from the 1890s through the First World War, when domestic economy was taught as a moral discipline as much as a practical one and wasting food was a failure of management. Canned salmon is a telling ingredient here: Pacific coast canneries were turning it out in quantity by the 1880s, and a tin in the pantry meant fish in a household nowhere near the sea. The method " pick, moisten, force through a sieve, bind with white sauce " is the standard cream-soup formula of the period, applied interchangeably to fish, peas, celery or chicken; learn the white sauce and the rest of the chapter follows. The instruction to wash the parsley well may perhaps be read as a trace of an era before packaged greens, though the recipe itself says nothing of the reason.

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