The French Wine and Liquor Manufacturer

The liquor trade's own 1868 handbook — stills, cordials, imitation brandies and how wines were doctored, preserved as printed.

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Amazon Bitters

alcohol; gallon best sherry or madeira wine, and 1 pint wine vinegar.

Brandy.

Take 40 gallons French proof spirit, 1 gallon brandy flavor (see page 59), 1 quart hickory-nut tincture (see page 117), 1 drachm oil of cognac dissolved in 95 per cent. alcohol. and 1 pint wine vinegar. Color with caramel Bitters made with Essences. 40 gals. sprit, proof, 1 drachm each oil of anise, caraway, lemon, orange, and cinnamon, 1/2 drachm each bitter almonds and cloves, 1 gal. sugar syrup.

Cut the oils in alcohol, 95 per cent., and mix. Color with brandy coloring.

Amazon Bitters.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a compounder's sheet from the trade rather than a household recipe: spirit is measured in forty-gallon lots and flavour comes from bought essential oils. The formula that survives here cannot be made in a kitchen today, and the reasons are chemical rather than a matter of technique.

A Little History

The nineteenth-century "liquor manufacturer" manual was a genre of its own: a book that taught a merchant how to turn cheap neutral spirit into something that could be sold as brandy, cognac, or a proprietary bitters, using essential oils, tinctures, sugar syrup, a splash of vinegar for bite, and caramel for the colour that age would otherwise have supplied. Bitters in particular sold well because they were pitched as medicinal, which in many markets meant they escaped both the tax and the moral objection attached to plain liquor; grand exotic names of the Amazon-and-Orinoco sort were part of the pitch, often said to promise rare tropical botanicals over a base that was, at least in some formulas, anise, orange peel and cinnamon. Books like this one are best read as evidence of what the pure food and drug legislation of the early twentieth century was written to stop, since the same pages that list harmless spices also reach without comment for compounds now known to be poisonous.

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