The French Wine and Liquor Manufacturer

The liquor trade's own 1868 handbook — stills, cordials, imitation brandies and how wines were doctored, preserved as printed.

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Prune Tincture

*** It is absolutely necessary to have a tub with a clear surface-bed of 14 inches charcoal, to insure a perfect rectification. After rectification, high wine is called spirit, and this spirit when again distilled is called French or Cologne spirit. (See page 17.) Tincture of St. John's Bread.

Mash or cut in small pieces 16 lbs. beans, and let them infuse 3 days in 4 gals. water. Stir twice or more a day. This has a tendency to extract the sugar from the beans. Then rack off and put the tincture in a barrel. After this operation, pour over the beans 4 gals. spirit, 95 per cent., to extract the oil, let it infuse 8 days, then add spirit, tincture and beans to the first tincture.

Let it settle, and use the tincture according to prescription for Rum, Bourbon Whiskey; also for Cognac Brandy, in the proportion of one quart for 40 gals. liquor.

ANOTHER WAY TO PREPARE THE ABOVE TINCTURE.

Cut 16 lbs. St. John's Bread in small pieces, pour over 8 gals. spirit, 50 per cent., say proof, let infuse 10 days at least, stir every day twice or more, and use the tincture according to prescription. (See page 65.) Prune Tincture.

Mash 1 box, say 25 lbs., prunes, stones, kernels, the whole together. Pour over 5 gals. French spirit, proof. Let infuse 15 days at least before using the tincture, according to prescription for Brandy. Stir every day.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a compounder's flavoring extract, not a drink in itself: a quart or so was dosed into forty gallons of neutral spirit to imitate aged brandy. It cannot be reproduced safely, because the whole point of the method is to crush and macerate the prune kernels.

A Little History

Manuals like this one belong to a nineteenth-century trade in compounded liquor: neutral spirit, bought by the barrel, coloured with caramel and burnt sugar and flavoured with tinctures until it could be sold as cognac, bourbon or rum. Carob pods (long called St. John's bread, from the tradition that the locusts John the Baptist ate in the wilderness were carob) supplied sweetness and a dark molasses note; prune kernels supplied the almond-and-stone-fruit smell that drinkers associated with genuine aged brandy, the same character sought in noyau and in kirsch. The practice was widespread enough that it helped drive the pure food agitation of the following decades, and labelling rules eventually distinguished "straight" whiskey from blended and imitation goods. The casualness about crushed pits is period-typical: the toxicity of kernel amygdalin was understood by chemists well before 1900.

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