The Metropolitan Cook Book

A life insurance company teaching its policyholders to eat: the Metropolitan's own cookbook, given away from the tower on Madison Square.

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Cream of Celery Soup

3 cups celery, cut in 2 cups boiling water 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/8 teaspoon pepper teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons flour 2 tablespoons fat 2 cups milk teaspoon pepper Wash and scrape celery and cut into inch pieces; add water and cook until very soft and tender; rub through sieve. Heat milk in double boiler, and add milk to celery. Melt fat, add flour and seasoning and mix with soup. 1/2 can or 1 pint tomatoes 2 teaspoons sugar teaspoon soda

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain early-twentieth-century cream soup: vegetable purée thinned with scalded milk and thickened with a flour-and-fat roux. The method is sound, though the proportions want restating in modern terms.

A Little History

Cream soups of this pattern -- a cooked vegetable purée, scalded milk, and a flour-and-fat thickening -- were the backbone of American soup chapters from the 1890s through the 1940s, taught as a single formula with the vegetable swapped out: celery, asparagus, pea, corn, tomato. Celery was a fashionable and comparatively expensive market vegetable in that era, often sold as a table relish in cut-glass celery vases, and a cream soup was often recommended as a thrifty way to use the tough outer ribs and leafy tops that were too coarse to serve raw.

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