The Metropolitan Cook Book

A life insurance company teaching its policyholders to eat: the Metropolitan's own cookbook, given away from the tower on Madison Square.

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To Fry Chicken

Select young chicken. Cut up. Wash, drain, but do not dry, Dredge well with flour and seasoning. Use drippings for fat-salt pork, bacon, beef or chicken fat will do, or use part butter and part other fat. Cook chicken slowly in fat in frying pan until tender, and well browned. Serve with cream or milk gravy. 2 tablespoons butter -pound fresh mushrooms 1 teaspoon salt

For the Modern Kitchen

A skillet-fried chicken in the plainest American style, written for a cook who already knew what the pan should sound like. The instructions are terse but complete; the only real omissions are quantities and time.

A Little History

Pan-frying chicken in shallow fat is one of the oldest continuously practised American cooking methods, appearing in American cookbooks from the early nineteenth century onward and often traced to a convergence of British battered-and-fried poultry with West African frying traditions in Southern kitchens. What dates this particular version is its indifference to the fat: drippings from salt pork, bacon, beef or the bird itself, or a part-butter blend, whichever the household happened to have rendered and saved. The cream gravy built in the same pan is the point of the frugality; nothing browned is thrown away.

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