The Modern Method of Preparing Delightful Foods

Ida Bailey Allen tells the story of American corn — Plymouth breakfasts to the Great War — and hangs a day's four meals on it, for the company that made Karo and Mazola.

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Bordelaise Sauce

To Tomato Sauce, add one-third cup minced shallots, a minced clove of garlic, and a teaspoon of chopped parsley cooked gently till yellowed in one tablespoon Mazola. Add a little lemon juice and if convenient two tablespoons beef marrow. Serve with any kind of boiled meat or fish, meat or fish loaf or with sliced tenderloin of beef.

For the Modern Kitchen

A derivative sauce that assumes you have already made the book's tomato sauce, and that assumes an ingredient most home cooks no longer keep on hand. Two details carry it: the shallots must soften without browning, and the marrow goes in at the very end.

A Little History

Sauce bordelaise takes its name from Bordeaux and is classically built on red wine reduced with shallots, thickened with demi-glace and finished with poached beef marrow — the marrow is what earns a dish the tag à la moelle. What appears here is a shortcut version: the wine and brown stock are gone, tomato sauce stands in for the whole foundation, and the marrow is demoted to "if convenient." That substitution says a good deal about the book, which appears from its use of the brand name to have been issued to promote Mazola corn oil and translates French restaurant cookery into terms a home cook with a bottle of oil and a can of tomatoes could manage. Marrow bones were cheap and ordinary in the early twentieth century, sold for soup and for spreading on toast; the fact that the recipe treats them as optional suggests the audience was already drifting away from the butcher's counter.

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