The Pleasures of the Table

Gastronomy from ancient days to modern times — the feasts of Greece and Rome, the great chefs and their schools, the literature of the table, and Ellwanger's own views on the aesthetics of dinner-giving.

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Traditions Culinaires Et L'Art De Man: Macaroni

Macaroni, Dr. Gastaldy on, 120 Macaroni, Rossini's lost recipe for, 220 Madeleine (the), Dumas' story of, 169 Mæcenas, referred to, 38, 39 Magee (Bishop), anecdote of, 394 Mahony (Rev. Francis), poem on paté de foie gras, 161; his "Watergrasshill Carousal," 309 Maintenon (Mme. de), referred to, 57, 63, 340 Maître d'hôtel, duties and importance of the, 136-138, 204 66 Maitre d'Hôtel Français (Le)," )," 206 "Manuel des Amphitryons," quoted, 69; referred to, 93-95 Markham (Gervaise), referred to, 93-95; quoted, 409 Marriage, Balzac's definition of, 351 Martial, quoted, 24, 31, 33, 44; referred t 37, 38, 40 to, Marvell (Andrew), referred to, 81, 252 Mauri (Cardinal), his fondness for "Est, Est, Est," 311 Mead, its composition, 97 Medici (Catherine de), 52, 433 Melons, 9, 273, 298 "Memoirs of a Stomach," quoted, 271 "Memorials of Gormandizing," 329 Metheglin, 96, 98, 439 Metzelsuppe, Uhland's poem on, 166 Mind vs. stomach, 5 Mistletoe-thrush, 361 Juvenal, referred to, 34, 37, 40; quoted, 37, Mézeray (Mlle.), referred to, 117-119, 125, 126 42 "Kalendare de Potages dyuers," 88, 90 Kempis (Thomas à), his fondness for salmon, 309 King (Wm.), poem on cookery, 279 Kitchener (Dr. Wm.), referred to, 106 Kuchen, merits of the German, 169, 174 "Kuchenmeisterey," 171 La Bruyère, quoted, 229, 380 Lacroix (Octave), his tribute to Dumas, 211 "Modern Cook (The), "(208 Mohrenkeller, of Nürnberg, 163 Molière, referred to, 57, 58, 113 Monselet (Charles), quoted, 175, 194, 206, 264; referred to, 211, 225, 232, 340 Montaigne, quoted, 6, 51, 200, 376, 414; referred to, 147, 283 Montauron (Seigneur de), 54 Montausier (Duc de), 54, 55 Montespan (Mme. de), 58, 63 Montgomery (James), poem on the daisy, 424 Morellet (l'Abbé), anecdote of, 304 La Fontaine, referred to, 116 Morgan (Lady), referred to, 62; quoted, 200 Laguipière, referred to, 6, 201, 202 Lamb (Charles), referred to, 17, 239, 240-242, Mouchy (Maréchal de), anecdote of, 64 430; his apology to the pig, 240 Lampridius, quoted, 47 Larding (art of), its discoverer, 281 La Reynière (Grimod de), referred to, 66, 72, 112 et seq., 178, 196, 213, 225, 317, 336, 361, 443; poem of, 117; quoted, 118, 233, 236, 287, 345, 348, 383, 411; his home kitchen, 131, 132; as a gastronomer, 132; denounced by Savarin, 158; his tribute to Savarin, 177. Vide also "l'Almanach des Gourmands" La Rochefoucauld, quoted, 5 Leckerbissen and Frauenessen, 172 Lennox (Lady), anecdote of, 335 Liar, charm of the accomplished, 331 Liqueurs (celebrated), of monastic invention, 283-285 "Livre de Cuisine (Le)," 225 Locust (the), as an article of diet, 7 Louis XIII, as a gastronomer, 53; XIV, as a gastronomer, 64 et seq.; XV, as a gastronomer, 61; XVIII, as a gastronomer, 76, 78 Lucullus, as an epicure, 41-43; referred to, 45, 200, 201 Moynier (M. M.), referred to, 394, 396 Müller (Wilhelm), poem of, quoted, 311 Mullet, a much-valued fish, 32, 47; origin of the name, 33 Murger (Henri), referred to, 341 Mushrooms, 362; species, qualities, history, haunts, literature, and cookery of, 397- 408 Musset (Alfred de), quoted, 219 Mutton, Pré-Salé and Southdown, 359, 380 Napoleon I, as a gastronomer, 61 Nasidienus, the feast of, 39, 40 Nero, his Domus aurea, 43 Ninon de l'Enclos, referred to, 175, 178, 200 North (Christopher), 309, 316 "Nouvel Almanach des Gourmands," quoted, 220 Nudels, 167 Oaks, list of truffle-producing, 391 Oil and vinegar, 415-416 "Old Cookery Books," quoted, 275 Olive-oil, remote use of, 8 Olla podrida, 50; en grande, 50 INDEX Omelette (the curé's), anecdote of, 299-302 Onderdonk (Bishop), anecdote of, 295 Onion, an ancient vegetable, 9; tribe, virtues of the, 106, 107, 231, 387 "Original (The)," 319 et seq.

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