The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Baked Halibut

2 lbs. halibut. 1 cupful tomatoes. 2 tablespoonfuls flour 2 tablespoonfuls Crisco 3/4 teaspoonful salt ⅛ teaspoonful pepper Clean fish, season with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, place in Criscoed baking pan, pour over tomatoes, and dot with Crisco. Bake in a moderate oven, basting often.

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain baked fish with a tomato topping, written in the compressed style of an early Crisco pamphlet. The ingredient list as printed covers only the seasoning and fat, so the fish and tomatoes need judgment.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco was published by Procter & Gamble in the years after the product's 1911 introduction, and it is a cookbook written to make an unfamiliar ingredient look ordinary. Hydrogenated cottonseed oil had no place in any cook's repertoire, so the pamphlet's answer was to print several hundred entirely conventional American recipes with the new fat quietly inserted wherever lard or butter would once have stood — hence "Criscoed baking pan" and "dot with Crisco," phrasing that reads as advertising because it is. Baked halibut with tomatoes was a standard of the period: halibut was firm enough to hold together in a pan, and mild enough to carry a tomato dressing. The dish belongs to the same plain school as baked cod and stuffed haddock that fills the fish chapters of nearly every American household manual of the era.

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