The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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December 9

Menu: Oysters; Chicken Hot Pot; Celery Salad Dried Apricot Shortcake; Coffee Chicken Hot Pot-Prepare large chicken. Cut into as small pieces as joints allow. Do not remove meats from bones. Boil chicken until nearly tender and keep broth left in kettle when you remove chicken from it. Cut 1 pound of lean, raw ham into small squares. Wash and peel and parboil 8 large potatoes and slice them. Slice 3 medium-sized onions. Put into deep baking dish layer of chicken, layer of ham, layer of potatoes, and layer of onions. Repeat until all are used up; when arranging these layers strew tiny bits of Crisco over them. Pour

For the Modern Kitchen

A layered chicken-and-ham casserole built on the English hot pot pattern, written to sell shortening. The text breaks off mid-sentence at the page turn, so the final step has to be reconstructed.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) paired promotional matter with menus and recipes written by Marion Harris Neil, then cookery editor of the Ladies' Home Journal — the December 10 dinner is one of those daily entries, which is why the recipe runs on without a break and gets guillotined by the page number. The dish itself is an American adaptation of the British hot pot, a layered meat-and-potato bake generally traced to Lancashire, where the point was a dish that could sit in a slow oven unattended. Its presence here is commercial as much as culinary: Procter & Gamble had launched Crisco, hydrogenated cottonseed oil, in 1911, and needed to show a wholly new product doing the everyday jobs of butter and lard, right down to being dotted between layers of potato.

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