The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Dressing (Tablespoonfuls vinegar eggs)

1 tablespoonful Crisco Pinch of salt 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar 2 eggs 2 tablespoonfuls sugar 1/2 pint whipped cream

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is an ingredient list rather than a method, and the missing part is the part that matters. Comparable cream dressings of the period are built as a cooked custard base — eggs, sugar and vinegar stirred over hot water until thickened, cooled, then folded into whipped cream — but nothing here says so.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (Procter & Gamble, 1913) was one of the first great single-product cookbooks, published to teach American cooks what to do with a wholly new ingredient: hydrogenated cottonseed oil, sold as a substitute for lard and butter. Its salad chapter belongs to a moment when "salad" in an American household often meant fruit, canned or fresh, bound with a sweet cream or boiled dressing rather than dressed with oil and vinegar — mayonnaise being fussy and commercial bottled dressings not yet widespread, though they were beginning to appear. Cooked egg-and-vinegar dressings lightened with whipped cream were standard in this style; the printed line here is a shopping list, not a procedure.

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