The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Scotch Shortbread

4 cupfuls flour. 3/4 cupful sugar. 1 cupful Crisco. 3/4 cupful Crisco 1 large egg 1 teaspoonful salt Sift flour and salt on to baking board. Cream Crisco, sugar and egg in basin and when thoroughly beaten turn out on board and very gradually knead in flour. Make into two smooth rounds, pinch them round the edges, prick over top with fork, lay on papered tin and bake in moderate.oven thirty-five minutes. Leave on tin until cold.

Sufficient for two round cakes. 1 cupful sugar ½ cupful Crisco 4 whites of eggs

For the Modern Kitchen

The ingredient list on this page has been mangled in printing: flour is called for in the method but never quantified, and the last line (½ cupful Crisco, 4 whites of eggs) belongs to a neighbouring recipe. Read the method, not the list.

A Little History

Traditional Scotch shortbread is a three-ingredient business — butter, sugar, flour — and the whole egg here suggests an American adaptation rather than a Scottish one. The Story of Crisco was published by Procter & Gamble in 1913 to promote the hydrogenated cottonseed shortening it had introduced in 1911, and its recipe section exists to prove the product could replace butter and lard across the whole range of domestic baking. Shortbread was a shrewd choice for that argument: the name is generally taken to refer to the "shortening" effect of a high proportion of fat, which prevents gluten strands from forming long chains and yields a crumb that snaps rather than stretches. Putting a vegetable fat into the one cake that is named for fat was a demonstration piece. The book is credited to Marion Harris Neil, then cookery editor of The Ladies' Home Journal, and the pinched edge and fork-pricked top described here are old Scottish practice, whatever the filling of the tin.

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