The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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August 8

Menu: Clam Cocktail; Roast Lamb, Mint Jelly; Rice Fritters; Lima Beans; Lettuce and Banana Salad; Windsor Tartlets; Iced Coffee Windsor Tartlets-Crisco Plain Pastry, 2 eggs, 4 tablespoons Crisco, 4 tablespoons sugar, 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch, 5 powdered macaroons, 18 glace cherries, 1 piece of lemon peel, and 1/2 tablespoon chopped almonds. Put Crisco and sugar into 1 basin and beat them to a cream. Add yolks of eggs, 1 at a time, and beat each well in. Chop cherries and peel, add them and macaroons to mixture, mix thoroughly, add almonds and cornstarch. Roll out Crisco Plain Pastry and line small tartlet tins thinly with it. Beat whites of eggs to stiff froth and stir lightly into mixture. Fill each lined tin three parts full. Bake them in moderate oven until mixture is set and brown. Dust with sugar and serve either hot or cold. Place crossbars of pastry over mixture, if liked. Stale cakecrumbs can be used instead of macaroons.

For the Modern Kitchen

A rich almond-and-cherry filling baked in pastry shells, from the promotional cookbook Procter & Gamble published to teach cooks what to do with its new vegetable shortening. The one thing that decides the outcome is how you treat the beaten whites: fold them in at the very end with a light hand, or the filling bakes dense instead of setting to a soft sponge.

A Little History

This page belongs to The Story of Crisco, the 1913 collection written by Marion Harris Neil for Procter & Gamble to persuade American cooks that a hydrogenated cottonseed shortening could stand in for both butter and lard. Neil, a British-trained cookery writer who had edited domestic pages in Philadelphia, filled the book with recipes of visibly English character, and Windsor tartlets are one of them: the name appears to follow the Victorian and Edwardian habit of attaching a royal or aristocratic place-name to a small rich pastry, in the same family as Balmoral cakes and Richmond maids of honour, and no specific origin for the recipe is documented. The dated heading places the page in the book's calendar of dinners, which paired dated menus with the recipes that made them up. The mismatch between the page heading and the recipe printed under it is presumably an artifact of that dense dated layout, though the cause is not documented.

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