The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Marble Cake

2 cupfuls sugar. 1 cupful Crisco. 3 1/2 cupfuls flour. 4 eggs. 1 cupful milk. 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder 2 tablespoonfuls molasses 2 tablespoonfuls melted chocolate 1 teaspoonful powdered cinnamon 1/2 teaspoonful grated nutmeg 1/2 teaspoonful powdered allspice 1 teaspoonful salt Cream Crisco, add gradually the sugar, yolks of eggs beaten until thick, flour, salt, baking powder, milk, and egg whites beaten to stiff froth. Mix carefully and to one-third the mixture add spices, molasses, and melted chocolate. Drop in Criscoed cake pan alternately a spoonful of each mixture, and draw spoon through once or twice to make colors lie in lines. Bake in moderately hot oven one hour.

Sufficient for one medium-sized cake.

For the Modern Kitchen

The ingredient list as printed is incomplete — the quantities of Crisco, sugar, eggs, flour and milk have dropped out, though the method calls for all of them. What survives is the spice-and-chocolate formula for the dark batter and the marbling technique.

A Little History

Marble cake was an American household staple long before Crisco existed — nineteenth-century books give it with butter, and the dark half is often spiced and molassed rather than chocolate. This version uses both. Its appearance in The Story of Crisco (1913) is the point of the book: Procter & Gamble had a hydrogenated cottonseed-oil shortening to sell and needed to show it doing everything butter and lard did, so the volume works methodically through the standard repertoire of the period, cakes included, with the product name inserted as ingredient and verb alike. The claim implicitly made by a marble cake is a good one for a new fat: the batter has to cream well, hold two colours in suspension, and bake without greasy streaks.

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