The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Mixed Vegetable Souffle

1 tablespoonful Crisco ¼ lb. cooked carrots ½ lb. boiled potatoes 3/4 lb. boiled turnips 3 eggs ½ lb. stewed onions 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley Salt and pepper to taste Chop onions, add vegetables mashed, then mix well, add Crisco, seasonings, and yolks of eggs. Beat up whites of eggs to stiff froth and fold them into mixture, then turn it into Criscoed fireproof dish and bake thirty minutes in moderate oven.

For the Modern Kitchen

A vegetable pudding lightened with beaten egg white — closer to a French pain de légumes than to a cheese souffle. The proportions are generous; scale down before you commit.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913), written by Marion Harris Neil for Procter & Gamble, was a promotional cookbook for Crisco, the hydrogenated vegetable shortening introduced in 1911. Because Crisco contained no animal fat, it was marketed to kosher households, an audience the lard trade could not reach. The dish itself belongs to an older tradition of savoury vegetable souffles and moulded purées that ran through late-Victorian and Edwardian cookery, where beaten egg white was a common means of turning a heavy mash into something presentable at table. Its plainness is period-typical: root vegetables, parsley, salt and pepper, and no cheese or sauce to carry it.

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