The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Vegetarian (Change water at least twice)

Change water at least twice, drain and pound peel to a paste, add apples, cored, peeled and chopped, lemon peel, Crisco, currants, raisins, salt, spices, lemon juice, nut meats, and sugar. Put into a jar and cover. This mincemeat is excellent for pies and tartlets.

Sufficient for four pies.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is the second half of a vegetarian mincemeat: the page picks up mid-method, after the citrus peel has been boiled. Quantities are on the missing portion, so treat what follows as technique rather than a formula.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913), written by Marion Harris Neil for Procter & Gamble, was a promotional cookbook built around a then-new product: hydrogenated cottonseed oil sold as a solid white shortening. Much of the book's argument is substitution, and mincemeat is one of its better cases. Mincemeat had for centuries been a genuinely meaty preserve, chopped beef or tongue with suet, dried fruit, spice and spirits, and by the nineteenth century many recipes had reduced or dropped the meat while the suet stayed on as fat and preservative, though frankly meaty versions persisted alongside them. That left the dish off-limits to vegetarians and, as Crisco's marketing pointedly noted elsewhere, to kosher households cooking a dessert alongside meat. Replacing suet with a vegetable fat solved both at once. The boiled peel that opens this fragment is much older than the shortening.

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