The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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October 12

Menu: Cream of Carrot Soup; Roast Pig, Apple Sauce; Candied Sweet Potatoes; Creamed Celery; Kumquat Salad; Cheese Croutons; Coffee Cheese Croutons-Cut crusts from thin slices of stale bread and spread lightly with creamed Crisco, then with a layer of cream cheese seasoned with salt and pepper. Cover with a second slice of bread and cut into fingers 1 inch wide, using a sharp knife. Place in a shallow pan and brown in a hot oven.

For the Modern Kitchen

A small savoury from the Crisco book's dinner calendar, meant to go alongside soup rather than stand alone. Two things decide whether it works: bread dry enough to slice thin without tearing, and an oven hot enough to colour the outside before the filling runs.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) was Procter & Gamble's book-length argument for its new hydrogenated cottonseed-oil shortening, launched in 1911 as an alternative to lard and butter, and the recipes were assembled by Marion Harris Neil, then cookery editor of the Ladies' Home Journal. The "Calendar of Dinners" section pairs a menu with each date, which is why this fragment sits under a coffee heading and points on toward a peanut purée: those lines are stray menu text from the calendar, while the page itself carries a complete recipe with its own method. Croutons in period usage meant almost any small shape of fried or oven-browned bread served with soup, from plain dice to filled fingers like these, and the cheese version gave the shortening an easy showcase in a place where a cook would otherwise have reached for butter.

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