The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Peach Shortcake

3/4 cupful Crisco 1 teaspoonful baking powder ½ teaspoonful salt 1 teaspoonful almond extract Quartered peaches Cream Crisco and sugar together, then add milk, eggs one by one, always beating well between each one, flour sifted with baking powder and salt, then add extract. Mix and divide into two layer tins that have been greased with Crisco and bake twenty minutes in moderate oven. Turn out and spread with butter. Put together with quartered and sweetened peaches and pile some peaches on top. Sufficient for one cake.

For the Modern Kitchen

The ingredient list as printed is incomplete — sugar, milk, eggs and flour all appear in the method but never got their quantities into the column. Treat this as a standard two-layer butter cake and work from the proportions below.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) was written by Marion Harris Neil for Procter & Gamble, two years after the company introduced Crisco as the first widely marketed hydrogenated vegetable shortening. The book's job was to persuade cooks that a manufactured fat could replace lard and butter in everything, which is why the brand name appears in the ingredient list of nearly every recipe and again in the instruction to grease the tins. The dish itself sits at a fork in American usage: shortcake had long meant a rich biscuit dough split and filled with fruit, but by this period a butter-cake version was common enough that the two coexisted under one name, and a promotional cookbook had obvious reasons to prefer the version that used three-quarters of a cup of the product. Peaches, cheap and abundant in late summer, were a natural partner — strawberry shortcake's second season.

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