The Story of Crisco

The Story of Crisco, 1913 — how Procter & Gamble taught America a new fat, with 250 recipes and a year of dinners to seal it.

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Strawberry Shortcake

3 cupfuls flour ½ cupful Crisco ½ teaspoonful salt 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder 1 egg 2 tablespoonfuls sugar 1 cupful milk 1½ pints strawberries 1 cupful whipped cream Sift the flour with the baking powder, salt and sugar, then cut in the Crisco with a knife, add egg well beaten, and milk. The dough should be a soft one. Roll in two layers, spread in two Criscoed pans and bake in a hot oven until a light brown color. Mash and sweeten one cupful of the strawberries, put on one layer, then place second layer on top. Sweeten remainder of strawberries, spread on top layer, and cover with the whipped cream. Decorate with whole ripe strawberries. Cakes

For the Modern Kitchen

A biscuit-style shortcake, not a sponge — the dough is barely sweetened and depends on being handled lightly and baked fast. A few notes on the 1913 shorthand.

A Little History

The Story of Crisco (1913) was promotional literature from Procter & Gamble, published to teach American cooks what to do with a fat that had no culinary tradition behind it: hydrogenated cottonseed oil, sold as a clean, odourless, shelf-stable alternative to lard and butter. Nearly every recipe in the book is an existing standard rewritten with Crisco in the fat slot, and strawberry shortcake was a shrewd choice — it was already one of the most firmly American desserts, associated with June strawberry socials and church suppers through the second half of the nineteenth century. The biscuit-dough version here is the older form; the sweet sponge or cupcake-style shortcake sold in supermarkets today is a later commercial development. Note the instruction to "Crisco" the pans: the brand is being drilled in as a verb, which tells you exactly what the book was for.

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