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Lobster in Surprise a La Tartare
Cut a two-pound lobster into very small dice shapes (canned lobster is very good). Mix it with the sauce, partlobster is very good). Mix it with the sauce, part- 1y fill some little fancy paper cases with the lobster, then fill some little fancy paper cases with the lobster, then fill entirely with whipped aspic flavored with a few drops of tarragon vinegar and grated lemon peel. Place in a cold place until well chilled, then serve. The tops may be decorated with a star cut from a slice of truffle or press a stoned olive in the center. one
A cold assembly rather than a cooked dish: diced lobster bound in tartare sauce, packed into small cases and sealed under whipped aspic. The success of it rests entirely on getting the aspic to the right stage before you whip it.
- The hinge: whipped aspicAspic must be cooled to the point where it is syrupy and just beginning to set before whisking; too warm and it will not hold air, too cold and it seizes into lumps. Whisk over a bowl of ice water until it is opaque and roughly the texture of soft whipped cream, then use it at once.
- Aspic itselfThe book assumes a clarified, well-seasoned meat or fish jelly on hand. A strong fish or shellfish stock set with about 1 tablespoon (1 envelope) powdered gelatin per 2 cups liquid gives a firm enough jelly for whipping; season it assertively, as chilling mutes salt.
- Tartare sauceThe period sauce is a mayonnaise with capers, gherkins, shallot and chopped herbs. Use a stiff homemade mayonnaise so the lobster does not weep in the cases.
- Paper cases"Little fancy paper cases" are the pleated souffle or petit-four cups of the period. Foil bonbon cups or small ramekins work; a two-pound lobster will fill a modest number of small cases, depending on their size.
- Canned lobsterThe endorsement of canned lobster reflects a moment when it was a common and respectable pantry item. Today, cooked lobster or langostino tail meat, drained and patted dry, is the closer substitute; excess moisture will thin both sauce and aspic.
- Dice sizeCut to about a quarter inch. Larger pieces will not pack level in a small case and the aspic layer ends up uneven.
- ChillingTwo hours in the refrigerator sets the aspic firmly. Serve within a day, kept covered so the jelly does not skin or pick up other flavors.
- GarnishTruffle stars can be replaced with a thin ring of black olive or a caper. Add the garnish once the aspic has just set, so it sits on the surface rather than sinking.
Aspic work of this kind was the visible proof of a competent cold kitchen around the turn of the century: clarified jelly, whipped to a foam, was one of the few ways to make a rich cold filling look light before mechanical refrigeration was universal. Lobster "in surprise" belongs to a family of dishes named for a concealed filling, the pleasure being that the diner does not see the lobster until the fork goes in. Canned lobster, praised here without apology, was then a major New England and Maritime export and made a luxury shellfish available far inland.