With a Saucepan Over the Sea

Adelaide Keen went abroad with a notebook and came home with the recipes — cocka leekie from Scotland, petite marmite from Paris, the maids of honor of Richmond — each dish tagged with the country that gave it.

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Boiled Onions

(A French recipe.) Peel and fry 12 small onions, adding a pinch of sugar, salt, and pepper. When brown, add 1 cup or more of consomme, to cover, set in the oven with a plate over the dish, and serve when tender.

For the Modern Kitchen

A braise, despite the title: the onions are browned in fat, barely covered with stock, and finished under cover in the oven. The original assumes a cook who knows what to reach for, so a few blanks need filling.

A Little History

Adelaide Keen's With a Saucepan Over the Sea (1902) gathered dishes from Europe and beyond for American households. Small onions browned in butter and finished in stock with a pinch of sugar are a fixture of that repertoire, the same operation that yields the glazed garnish for a boeuf bourguignon or a coq au vin. The sugar is often said to work less for sweetness than for colour, though the mechanism is disputed. The recipe is titled "Boiled Onions."

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