With a Saucepan Over the Sea

Adelaide Keen went abroad with a notebook and came home with the recipes — cocka leekie from Scotland, petite marmite from Paris, the maids of honor of Richmond — each dish tagged with the country that gave it.

HomeCakes, Puddings, and Pastry › Wonders

Wonders

(Isle of Jersey.) Beat 1/4 pound of melted butter and 1/4 pound of sugar to a cream. Add 3 beaten eggs, 1 pound of flour, and a little nutmeg. Knead well and set to rise. Cut into large rings, twist these, and fry in boiling fat. Dust with sugar. Real wonder cakes are cut in rounds, then two slits are cut across the centre, and these pieces are twisted without breaking. LOVE CAKES. (Germany. Eaten at Moravian love feasts.) Boil 2 cupfuls of honey and 1 ounce of sugar. Add 4 ounces of chopped almonds and simmer 5 minutes longer, then add 8 ounces of chopped candied peel, 1/2 a teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda, 1/2 a nutmeg, grated, a pinch of cloves, a teaspoonful of cinnamon, rind of a lemon, grated, and a tablespoonful of rum or sherry. Cut into pieces, 4 x 2 inches large, after adding enough flour to stiffen and rolling it very thin. Bake these in a slow oven, ice with sugar, and eat cold. In Germany they are served with wine to drink, and a bowl of stewed dried apples.

For the Modern Kitchen

Two recipes run together here: Jersey Wonders, a fried twisted dough, and Moravian Love Cakes, a honey-and-peel Lebkuchen. Both are workable, but each has a gap in the original that needs filling before you start.

A Little History

Jersey Wonders — des mèrvelles in Jèrriais — are among the island's best-known baking, sold at fairs and made in quantity for family gatherings; islanders will tell you the batch should be fried only on an incoming tide, or the fat will boil over, which is folklore rather than physics. The twisted-and-pulled-through shape is an old one across Europe, appearing as Scandinavian klenäter. The Love Cakes belong to a different tradition entirely: the Moravian Church, whose Liebesmahl or love feast is a simple communal meal of a sweetened bun or cake and a drink, distinct from Holy Communion rather than a substitute for it, and carried from Herrnhut in Saxony to Moravian settlements in England and Pennsylvania in the eighteenth century.

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