The Twentieth Century Home Cook Book

Practical recipes and household wisdom from 1906 — when the icebox was high technology and dinner had nine courses.

HomeSauces › Cream Bechamel Sauce

Cream Bechamel Sauce

Put into a stewpan six ounces of fresh, sweet butter, add four ounces of sifted flour, two or three pepper corns, salt, and a very little nutmeg; knead the whole well together, then cut an onion and a carrot into rather thin slices, throw them into the stewpan, and also a bouquet of parsley, thyme, and half a bay leaf tied with a twine. Moisten these with a quart of white broth and almost one pint of rich cream; having stirred the sauce over the fire for about one-half hour pass it through a sieve into a bowl.

For the Modern Kitchen

A classic white mother sauce built by an older method: the butter and flour are kneaded cold with the seasonings rather than cooked into a roux first, then the liquid is added and the whole thing is worked over heat until it thickens and takes flavour from the vegetables.

A Little History

Béchamel is one of the sauces Carême codified as a foundation of French cooking in the early nineteenth century, and it is traditionally credited to Louis de Béchameil, a steward in the household of Louis XIV — an attribution generally treated as courtly flattery rather than fact, since a similar flour-and-milk sauce was already in circulation. The version here is the older, richer form: not the plain milk-and-roux sauce of modern textbooks but a stock-based sauce enriched with cream and drawn through onion, carrot and herbs, closer to what nineteenth-century professional kitchens meant by the term. Its presence in a general household book of 1900 shows how far the French repertoire had travelled into ordinary American cookery by then — a home cook was expected to keep a white stock and to know why a sauce should not be allowed to brown.

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