The Twentieth Century Home Cook Book

Practical recipes and household wisdom from 1906 — when the icebox was high technology and dinner had nine courses.

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DECOCTION OF BARLEY (COMPOUND)

Boil 2 pints of barley water (see above) with 2½ ounces of sliced figs, 4 drachms of bruised fresh licorice, 21/½ ounces of raisins, and 1 pint of water, down to 2 pints, and strain. Effect, the same as barley water, but, in addition, laxative.

For the Modern Kitchen

A reduction of the plain barley water that precedes it in the book, sweetened and made gently laxative with dried fruit and licorice root. It is essentially a medicinal tisane, and the proportions matter more than the technique.

A Little History

Barley water is one of the oldest continuously used sickroom drinks in Europe, prescribed in Greek and Roman medicine as ptisane and still listed in nineteenth-century pharmacopoeias as decoctum hordei. The compound version here, with figs, raisins and licorice, follows a standard officinal formula that appeared in British and American dispensatories under names like decoctum hordei compositum; the figs and raisins supply sugar and mild bulk, the licorice masks the flatness of the barley and was itself regarded as demulcent. Its presence in a general household cookbook reflects how much domestic nursing was expected of the housewife, in an era when a sick child or a convalescent adult was managed at home and the cook was also the dispenser. The drachm measurement is suggestive: it points to a recipe shaped by the language of the dispensatory rather than the kitchen.

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