The Twentieth Century Home Cook Book

Practical recipes and household wisdom from 1906 — when the icebox was high technology and dinner had nine courses.

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INFUSION OF CASCARILLA

Macerate 1½ ounces of bruised cascarilla in 1 pint of boiling water for 2 hours, in a covered vessel, and strain. Stomachic and tonic. Used in dyspepsia, diarrhea and general debility. Dose: 1 ounce to 2 ounces.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is a domestic pharmacy entry rather than a beverage for pleasure, but the method is simply a long, covered steep of a bitter bark. A few of its terms and measures need translating before it makes sense at a modern counter.

A Little History

Cascarilla bark reached European pharmacy from the Bahamas in the seventeenth century and was valued as a cheaper, sweeter-smelling bitter alongside the far more famous cinchona; it appeared in official pharmacopoeias for generations and was also mixed into smoking tobacco for its fragrance. Its presence in a general household cookbook is typical of the period: before the household could reliably reach a pharmacist, cookbooks doubled as dispensatories, and the same woman expected to raise bread was expected to macerate, strain and dose. The reasoning behind the entry is the old doctrine of bitters, which held that a bitter taste stimulated the stomach and restored appetite and tone in the convalescent. That idea outlived its medical standing and survives in the aperitif, where cascarilla is still one of the botanicals quietly at work in commercial bitters and vermouths.

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