Buckeye Cookery

Tried and approved: the great American housekeeping bible of 1880.

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Hominy

Soak one quart of ground hominy over night, put over the fire in a tin pail, set in boiling water with water enough to cover, boil gently for five hours, as it can not be hurried. After the grains begin to soften on no account stir it. The water put in at first ought to be enough to finish it, but if it proves too little, add more carefully, as too much makes it sloppy. Salt just before taking from the stove, as too early salting makes it dark. If properly done, the grains will stand out snowy and well done, but round and separate.

For the Modern Kitchen

A double-boiler method for coarse hominy that trades attention for time. Two instructions carry the whole dish: do not stir once the grains soften, and do not salt until the end.

A Little History

Hominy comes to English from an Algonquian word, and the food itself from Indigenous nixtamalization: soaking dried maize in lye or lime water to loosen the hull, which also unlocks niacin and improves the protein. Colonial and then nineteenth-century American households took it up widely, and by the time Buckeye Cookery was compiled in Ohio in the 1870s, hominy in some form -- whole, cracked, or ground into grits -- was a common everyday starch, cheap, storable, and easily reheated. The book's insistence on a pail set in boiling water suits a kitchen with a wood range holding steady low heat for hours at a stretch, so a long cook cost little but a corner of the stove; the same recipe on a modern burner asks a good deal more of the cook's patience than of the fuel bill.

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