Buckeye Cookery

Tried and approved: the great American housekeeping bible of 1880.

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Strawberry Sauce

Half tea-cup of butter, one and a half tea-cups of sugar, and one pint of strawberries mashed till juicy. (Canned berries may be substituted for fresh ones). Beat the butter and sugar to a cream; then stir in the berries and the beaten white of an egg.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a creamed hard sauce in the English pudding-sauce tradition, thinned and coloured with fruit. The problem is the last ingredient: nothing in it is ever heated.

A Little History

Buckeye Cookery carries a run of pudding sauces built on a creamed butter-and-sugar base flavoured with wine, lemon, nutmeg, vanilla or fruit. Strawberries were among the earliest fruits of the Midwestern year and were commonly put up at home, which is presumably why the recipe offers canned berries as a substitute. Beaten egg white was used to lighten hard sauces in nineteenth-century American cookbooks and the practice persisted in print into the twentieth century, before the food-safety understanding that now rules it out.

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