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Stewing (Speaking of economy in cooking)

Speaking of economy in cooking naturally brings us to that most economical way of cooking--viz. stewing. Really, the principles of stewing--the French method of cooking nearly everything--are so simple that they hardly require explanation. Let us for one moment contrast a mutton chop grilled and one stewed in rice. In the former case, some of the chop goes up the chimney in the shape of vapour, and some into the fire in the shape of fat and perhaps a little gravy, and is absolutely lost, so far as the eater is concerned Take the chop, however, and put it in a small stewpan with just sufficient water to cover it, and a spoonful of rice; cover over the stewpan, put a heavy weight on the lid, and let it gently simmer by the fire for two or three hours. What is the result? Nothing is lost. Again, take that economical dish--an Irish stew--and see how much farther three pounds of neck of mutton will go as Irish stew than as mutton cutlets.

In speaking of stewing as the universal custom in France, recollect I do not refer so much to Parisian restaurants as to the nation generally, and especially the poor. I believe the contrast in the cooking between the French and English soldiers during the Crimean War was very marked. A very large employer of labour in the North of England told me he had noticed that the few French workmen he employed lived more than twice as well on the same wages as the other men, so far as eating was concerned.

Fortunately for this country there seems to be a change gradually going on for the better. Open kitchen grates are now rarely seen; and stewing over a close stove is far easier than over open ones. The reason of this is, that the principle of stewing is to keep the ingredients at a certain but not too great a heat. Stewing is very different to boiling. Irish stew allowed to boil is hard; Irish stew that is really stewed will almost melt in the mouth. Stewing can be done in an ordinary saucepan, but a stewpan, specially adapted for the purpose, is more suitable. It differs from a saucepan in having straight sides and a flat lid with a handle, and is made in different metals, varying in price according to size and quality. Copper stewpans are the best, but they are expensive, and must be kept scrupulously clean and bright. Iron stewpans with block tin covers can be had, according to size, from about four to twelve shillings. Flat covers are the most serviceable. Cooks must be very careful in using enamelled stewpans, as should the contents of one of these vessels begin to boil, such is their power of retaining the heat that it will be found the boiling process will continue some time after the vessel has been removed from the fire. Perhaps one of the best instances of the power enamelled stewpans have of retaining heat is seen when one is used for the purpose of making brown thickening. It will be remembered that we recommended, when the butter and flour mixed together had assumed a proper colour, that a few slices of onion should be thrown in, and the stewpan removed from the fire, without, however, any abatement in the stirring. Now, it will often be found that the stewing process will continue for over ten minutes after the vessel has been taken off the fire, and placed, say, on a cold slab. Of course, anything can be fried in butter or oil at a lower temperature than that of boiling water. Still, the extraordinary length of time the "bubbling" of the butter goes on is a capital means of impressing on the cook's mind how very much these vessels retain the heat. Consequently, in stewing, when boiling is particularly to be avoided, an enamelled stewpan should be carefully watched, and it will be found to be a good method to have a little cold water ready--a dessert-spoonful will be sufficient--to throw in to stop the boiling, should it accidentally take place. A copper stewpan retains the heat comparatively for a very short period.

Stewing is especially useful in a household where economy has to be practised. Less fire is required than for any other mode of cooking; indeed, to attempt to stew over a large fire would be fatal to the success of the dish. Less attention is necessary; a stew may be prepared and set on the fire, where it can be left while household matters are being attended to, an occasional stir with a wooden spoon being all that is needed. Less expensive joints are suitable for stewing; and those which are tough or gelatinous--such as knuckle of veal, mouse round of beef, thick or thin flank, leg of beef, etc.--may be thus prepared, because the slow, moderate heat--which should not exceed about 165 degree--and the moisture soften the fibres and render the meat tender and palatable. Then, again, as we have already said, in stewing nothing is wasted; whatever juices escape from the meat enrich the gravy, and where there are young children this gravy with some vegetables will form a suitable and nourishing meal. Vegetables and floury foods may be added to a meat stew, and a small quantity of mutton or beef will flavour the whole. When carrots are used it is well to boil them first, as, when old, they require brisk cooking. Very little liquid is needed; stews are frequently spoiled by neglect in this respect. The saucepan is half-filled with water to cook a small piece of steak; the consequence is that the steak will probably be tough and the gravy will have very little flavour.

For preparing many stews the meat is first fried, to give it a nice brown appearance, and also to harden the albumen on the surface, and so keep in, to some extent, the juice and flavour. Dried herbs, onions, parsley, cloves, allspice, etc., improve a savoury stew, since while the meat gives out some of its juices it absorbs the flavour of the condiments. Haricot mutton is a good example of a stew. To make it, trim the fat off about two pounds of the best end of neck of mutton, and cut it into rather thin chops. Fry them for three or four minutes, till they are a nice brown colour. Remove them from the pans and fry in the same fat a carrot, a turnip, and an onion, cut into dice. The vegetables should not get brown, but are merely fried to bring out their flavour. Lay the mutton in a stewpan, cover with the vegetables, and pour in sufficient hot water or stock to barely cover the whole. Put the lid on the stewpan, and let the contents just come to a boil; then draw to the side of the fire to simmer gently for at least two and a half hours. This is a dish which may with advantage be cooked the day before it is required, as if allowed to get cold the fat will settle on the top and can then be readily removed. Some turnips and carrots, cut into fancy shapes and boiled separately, serve as a garnish. If to be served at once, the fat, which always rises to the surface, must be skimmed off, otherwise the gravy is apt to be too rich and greasy.

There is one method of cooking to which we must refer before passing on to the general principles to be observed in cooking vegetables, and that is exposing meat to the heat of an oven which is heated on the outside by steam instead of fire. This is, in fact, the principle of Captain Warren's cooking pot. The joint is placed in an inner chamber, the outside of which is surrounded with steam. Consequently the joint is cooked in its own juice and vapours. The invention is valuable, owing to the very important fact that it is the most economical way of cooking possible. At the same time it gives, comparatively speaking, but little trouble to the cook.

Should it be wished that the joint should be a roast one, it has to be taken out of the cooking pot and browned. However, when this is done the joint cannot compare to one roasted before an open fire, or baked in one of the new ovens. I would therefore recommend--when Captain Warren's cooking pot is used--keeping as much as possible to the plan of eating the joint simply as it is, as browning the outside merely makes it a sort of compromise between a roast leg of mutton and a boiled one. One other advantage possessed by Captain Warren's cooking pot is that the lid is so constructed that while the meat is cooking in the inner chamber vegetables can be cooked by steam in a chamber above.