Pepper

A raw pepper relish, meant as a cold condiment for oysters on the half shell or cold shellfish rather than as a dish on its own. It takes five minutes and improves with a short rest.

• Dissolve the sugar firstWhisk the sugar and salt into the vinegar until the grains disappear before the peppers go in. Poured over the peppers undissolved, the sugar sits at the bottom and the relish tastes sharp on top and syrupy underneath.
• What "sweet green pepper" meansAn ordinary green bell pepper. Two medium peppers give roughly 1 1/2 to 2 cups once seeded and chopped; the white ribs are usually removed along with the seeds.
• Chop fineThe word used later in the recipe is "minced," so aim for pieces no larger than a lentil; coarse dice gives the dressing less to cling to.
• The vinegarCider vinegar is a plausible choice for the period and suits shellfish. White wine vinegar works; distilled white is harsher and may want a touch more sugar.
• Give it 30 minutesGive it a rest -- The recipe says "serve" immediately, but a short spell in the cold lets the peppers take up the dressing; kept longer they soften and the green dulls.
• Not a preserveNothing here is cooked or processed, so this keeps in the refrigerator for two or three days at most. It is not a canned pickle and should not be treated as one.
• Yield and servingYield -- About 1 1/2 to 2 cups of relish. Similar relishes of the period sometimes include grated onion or a little cayenne.