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Planked Fish-Shad
This most tempting of camping-out delicacies may be indulged in at the home table, and although the outdoor appetite and some of the delicate flavor imparted by cooking before an open fire may be lacking, this manner of cooking some fish, especially shad, is held by the fish-lover to be second to none. The white-oak planks, with trays for serving the fish without removing from the plank, can be obtained at first-class house-furnishing shops. They should be seasoned before the first using, by rubbing over with sweet butter and heating in a hot oven until slightly browned, taking care that they do not scorch. The flavor of the scorched wood will ruin the fish. The planks should not be washed after using, but should be cleaned by scraping with a dull knife and wiping off with cold water.
While shad is the fish par excellence for planking, any other fish that is usually split down the whole length may be cooked in this way. Clean and scale the fish and split it open from head to tail. Place it on the board with the skin side down and fasten it securely with pegs or thumb tacks. Stand it on end or side before a clear fire or cook under a gas flame. When nearly done, baste with melted butter and shake salt and melted butter over it. If it is to be served on a platter, remove the fastenings, slide it off carefully to the hot platter, and garnish with pickled walnuts and some melted butter flavored with walnut catsup.
A planking recipe from the era when a hardwood board was standard kitchen equipment rather than a steakhouse affectation. The technique is sound; only the hardware and the heat source need translating.
- The plankUntreated white oak, hickory or maple at least an inch thick, with no varnish, glue or mineral oil. Modern grilling planks sold for smoking are thin and meant to char through, which is precisely what this recipe warns against.
- Seasoning the board"Sweet butter" is unsalted butter. Rub it in and heat the board at about 400F until it darkens slightly, watching it closely; scorched oak gives the fish a creosote taste that no amount of butter will cover.
- Heat sourceA broiler at high heat, rack positioned so the fish surface sits 5-6 inches from the element, is the closest equivalent to the open fire or gas flame described. The board is stood vertically or angled toward a live fire; under a broiler it lies flat.
- FasteningsThumb tacks are not worth risking in food. Use short stainless nails or plated skewers pushed through the skin at the shoulders and tail, or simply lay the fish skin-down and skip pegging altogether if the board is level.
- DonenessA butterflied shad of 2-3 lb takes roughly 12-18 minutes. Take it off when the thickest flesh flakes and reaches 145F, not when it looks dry; shad is fatty and forgiving but overcooking wastes the point of the method.
- BastingThe line "shake salt and melted butter over it" is redundant in the original; salt it near the end and finish with butter so the salt does not draw moisture out early.
- Shad and its bonesAmerican shad is notoriously bony. Buy it boned by the fishmonger if possible. Bluefish, mackerel, salmon fillets or a split trout all plank well and are far easier to eat.
- Walnut catsup and pickled walnutsA dark, spiced condiment of green walnuts, once common and still made in Britain; mushroom ketchup or a spoonful of Worcestershire in the butter gives a similar savory note if you cannot find it.
- CleaningThe instruction not to wash the plank means no soap and no soaking, which would raise the grain and hold detergent. Scrape, wipe, dry thoroughly on edge, and re-butter before the next use.