To Broil without Opening

A one-line method that depends entirely on live shellfish and a fierce, dry heat. The oysters steam in their own liquor and the shell does the timing for you.

• The hingeThe oysters must be alive going onto the fire. Tap any that gape; if the shell does not close, discard it. Dead oysters spoil quickly and no amount of heat makes them wholesome.
• "A bed of hot coals"Charcoal burned down to a grey-ashed, glowing bed; the recipe names no temperature. On a gas grill, run all burners high with the lid down. An indoor broiler works but gives less of the smoke.
• The broilerA period "broiler" here is a gridiron or wire grid set on or over the coals, sometimes hinged with a handle. A modern grill grate serves the same purpose; keep the shells in a single layer so they heat evenly.
• Cup side downLay each oyster with the deeper, rounded shell underneath and the flat shell up. That holds the liquor, which is half the seasoning.
• TimingA few minutes, depending on size and heat; the recipe gives no time and its only signal is "as soon as the shells pop open." A moment longer will firm the meat, but pull them before the liquor boils dry.
• Ones that do not openA few will refuse to gape even when cooked through, usually because the adductor muscle has not released. Set those aside and open them with an oyster knife rather than leaving them on the fire until the flesh shrivels.
• ScrubbingWash means scrub, with a stiff brush under cold running water. Grit and mud on the outside ends up in the liquor the moment the shell opens.
• HandlingThe shells come off the coals hot enough to burn and will spit liquor. Lift them with tongs onto a tray, and give each guest a folded napkin or towel to hold the shell.
• Serving and yieldSix to eight oysters per person as a first course, a dozen as a light meal. Melted butter and lemon are the original; hot sauce, a splash of vinegar, or butter with garlic and parsley all suit the same technique.