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Vinaigrette of Cold Meat
Take any kind of cold dressed meat, cut it into neat slices, and put it upon a dish with cold potatoes cut into slices, hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters, and slices of beetroot. Season rather highly with pepper and salt, pour upon it oil and vinegar, in the proportion of 3 tablespoonfuls of oil to 2 of vinegar, and toss it lightly together with a fork. Sliced cucumber, chopped parsley, and finely minced onion may be added if liked, and a few drops of tarragon or chili vinegar may be mixed with the ordinary vinegar. Sometimes the various ingredients are sent to table prettily arranged in rings round a dish, with the colors contrasting, and they are mixed with the salad dressing at the moment of serving. A vinaigrette of cold boiled beef is excellent.
A cold-meat salad dressed at the table, built from leftovers rather than measured quantities. The only fixed figure is the dressing ratio, and it is worth respecting.
- The dressingThree tablespoons oil to two of vinegar is sharper than a modern vinaigrette, which usually runs three to one. That acidity is deliberate: it cuts cold fat and wakes up meat that has lost its roasting juices. Taste before adding more vinegar.
- Cold dressed meat"Dressed" here means cooked, not sauced. Boiled beef, roast lamb, ham, tongue or poached chicken all work; keep the slices thin and against the grain, since cold meat cut thick reads as tough.
- BeetrootThe recipe says only "slices of beetroot"; plain boiled beets are the likeliest reading, though pickled beetroot was also common in period kitchens. Vacuum-packed cooked beetroot is a close modern match. Add it last and toss minimally or it stains everything pink.
- PotatoesWaxy varieties hold their shape when sliced cold. Dress them while still slightly warm if you can manage it, as cold potato absorbs almost nothing.
- Tarragon or chili vinegarBoth were pantry staples in the period. Tarragon vinegar is still sold; for chili vinegar, a splash of a vinegar-based hot sauce gives roughly the same effect. Only a few drops are wanted.
- Dressing at the last momentFor the arranged version, keep the vinaigrette off the dish until it reaches the table. Acid standing on sliced egg and beet will bleed the color contrast and soften the texture the presentation depends on.
- Quantity and servingAbout 12 oz of cooked meat, 1 lb potatoes, three eggs and a medium beetroot make a lunch for four. Serve at cool room temperature rather than fridge-cold, and return leftovers to refrigeration promptly.