Hot Weather Dishes

Philadelphia, 1888: what to eat when it is too hot to cook, from the cooking-school teacher who taught the city.

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For the Cake

4 eggs 4 ounces of butter 2 cups of sugar 1 cup of milk 2 cups of flour 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder Beat the butter, sugar and yolks of the eggs together until light; add the milk and then the flour. Beat well. Now beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and stir them carefully into the cake; add the baking powder, and mix well; pour into a greased cake pan and bake in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour.

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain butter cake of the old cup-measure school, written as a component rather than a finished dessert. The one thing to change is the order of operations.

A Little History

Sarah Tyson Rorer's Hot Weather Dishes belongs to a small genre of late-nineteenth-century American cookbooks written for the summer kitchen, when a coal range turned a house unbearable and the cook wanted the oven lit once and used well. A heading like "For the Cake" invites an inference, though the text does not settle the matter: probably not a standalone dessert but the base for something assembled cold, or cut up to line a mould. The formula itself is the standard cup cake of the period, loosely related to the old 1-2-3-4 proportion of one cup butter, two sugar, three flour and four eggs that generations learned by rote before scales were common in home kitchens — though here the butter is halved and the flour reduced to two-thirds. Its reliance on chemical baking powder, rather than beaten eggs alone or saleratus and sour milk, marks it as thoroughly modern for its day.

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