Libertyville Presbyterian Cook Book

A small-town Presbyterian congregation's cookbook — measures in c., t. and T., sections from cocktails to sandwiches, page numbers inked by hand.

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Uncooked Salad Dressing (Pt Mazola oil Juice lemon or T)

½ pt. Mazola oil Juice 1 lemon or 2 T vinegar 2 T sugar ½ t salt Mustard as desired Beat egg two minutes; add oil two tablespoonfuls at time, beating after each addition. Add lemon juice (or vinegar) and sugar, salt and mustard.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a hand-beaten mayonnaise, and its only binder is a raw egg that is never heated at any point. That is the reason it cannot be recommended as written; the rest of the notes are for reading the recipe rather than making it.

A Little History

"Uncooked" is the operative word in the title: through much of the nineteenth century a homemade salad dressing often meant a boiled dressing, thickened with egg and flour over hot water and often stretched with milk, because emulsifying a full cup of oil into an egg by hand was tedious and prone to failure — though mayonnaise-type dressings appear in nineteenth-century American cookbooks alongside the boiled ones. Cheap bottled seed oils — Mazola corn oil among the earliest and most heavily advertised — made the uncooked, mayonnaise-style dressing practical in an ordinary kitchen, and recipes like this one spread through church and club cookbooks as the newer, more fashionable option. The instruction to add the oil two tablespoons at a time is the tell: the emulsion had to be coaxed, and the recipe says only "beat."

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