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Chocolate (Junket tablet tablespoon cold)
1 junket tablet 1 tablespoon cold water 2 cups cream 3 cups milk 1 tablespoon vanilla 14 cups sugar Scald milk; add melted chocolate and sugar; cook three minutes; cool. When lukewarm, add junket tablet which has been dissolved in cold water. Add cream and freeze. Two squares of chocolate give a very delicately flavored cream.
Cocoa Frappé 4 cups milk 3 squares Lowney's Premium Chocolate, or ½ cup Lowney's Cocoa ½ cup sugar tablespoon arrowroot 1 teaspoon vanilla 1 tablespoon sherry wine teaspoon salt 1 inch stick cinnamon Mix chocolate, cinnamon, sugar, salt, cornstarch; add milk; cook ten minutes; add vanilla, sherry, and freeze. Serve in frappé glasses, and garnish with cream flavored and beaten, and candied cherries.
Three cups of milk and one cup strong coffee may be used instead of all milk. See colored illustration, Plate XII, page 251. 4 cups cream 6 egg yolks 1½ cups sugar
A junket-set frozen chocolate cream from the era before commercial stabilizers, followed by a cocoa frappé built on the same base. Both are straightforward on a modern ice cream maker, but the ingredient lists need reading with care.
- Junket tabletsThese are rennet tablets, sold for making junket and still available from cheesemaking suppliers and some supermarkets. One tablet crushed and dissolved in a tablespoon of cold water is the correct proportion; here it acts as a stabilizer, giving body and slowing the formation of ice crystals rather than setting the mixture solid.
- The hinge: lukewarm, not hotRennet is destroyed by heat, so the cooked chocolate milk must come down to lukewarm — roughly 100-110F — before the dissolved tablet goes in. The recipe then goes straight on to the cream and the freezer; it gives no resting time, though a few minutes' stand before the cream is added will let the rennet act.
- Sugar quantityThe "14 cups sugar" in the first list is an error for a fraction — a chocolate cream of two cups cream and three cups milk takes roughly 1 to 1 1/4 cups. The chocolate quantity has dropped out of the list altogether; the note that follows tells you two squares gives a delicate flavor, and squares of the period were one ounce each, so three to four ounces suits most tastes.
- Lowney's chocolate and cocoaLowney's Premium was an unsweetened baking chocolate; any unsweetened bar substitutes ounce for ounce. Lowney's Cocoa was in all likelihood a natural rather than Dutch-processed cocoa, so a standard natural cocoa is the safer substitution.
- Arrowroot or cornstarchThe frappé list calls for arrowroot and the method calls for cornstarch. Either works at a tablespoon to four cups of milk; cornstarch needs the full ten minutes of cooking to lose its raw taste, while arrowroot thickens faster and should not be boiled hard.
- Unstated measuresSeveral quantities in the frappé are given without a number — "tablespoon arrowroot" and "teaspoon salt." Read these as one tablespoon and a scant quarter teaspoon of salt.
- FreezingBoth mixtures were made in a hand-cranked freezer packed with ice and rock salt. Chill the base thoroughly, then churn in an ice cream machine; a frappé is meant to stay slushy and coarse-grained, so serve it straight from the churn rather than hardening it in the freezer.
- YieldThe first recipe makes about five cups of frozen cream, six to eight servings. The frappé makes about a quart, enough for six small frappé glasses.
Lowney's Cook Book was published by the Walter M. Lowney Company of Boston, a chocolate manufacturer competing with Baker's and Hershey, and it existed to sell the firm's premium chocolate and cocoa — hence the branded ingredient lines. The junket tablet is the period detail worth noticing: rennet was a common household item when frozen desserts were made at home in a crank freezer, and a little of it gave the smoothness that commercial gums and stabilizers provide now. The frappé, from the French for "iced" or "struck," was a soda-fountain and luncheon course rather than a dessert, served semi-frozen in a stemmed glass; the spoonful of sherry and the inch of stick cinnamon place it firmly in the elaborate American entertaining style of the years around 1900.