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Chocolate (Teaspoon salt teaspoon vanilla)
+ teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon vanilla Scald one cup of cream; add to melted chocolate and cook three minutes, or until mixture is smooth and glossy; add sugar, salt, vanilla, and the remaining three cups of cream which has been beaten stiff. When well blended, add beaten yolks of eggs. Freeze.
Chocolate Ice Cream No. 2 2 ounces Lowney's Premium
This is a still-frozen chocolate ice cream from the era when Lowney's sold baking chocolate and wrote a book around it. As written it cannot be recommended, and the reasons are specific to how the eggs are handled here.
- The yolks are never cookedThe cream is scalded and cooked with the chocolate, but the beaten yolks go in at the very end, into a mixture that has already been slackened with three cups of cold whipped cream and is then frozen. Nothing in the sequence brings the yolks to a temperature that would make them safe.
- Freezing is not a kill stepChilling and churning suspend bacterial growth but do not destroy Salmonella. A raw-yolk ice cream carries whatever the eggs carried, and it will carry it for as long as the ice cream lasts.
- No cooked-custard stage to fall back onA true French-style ice cream heats yolks with the dairy to a set point before freezing. Here the yolks never meet the heat at all, which removes that safeguard. Use a current custard ice cream recipe instead.
- Incomplete as printedThe quantities of chocolate, sugar and eggs are not given in the surviving text, so the proportions cannot be judged even setting the egg question aside.
- Historic freezing methodThe book says only "Freeze." In a household of this period that would ordinarily have meant a hand-cranked bucket freezer packed with ice and salt, churned and then left packed to ripen. There is no oven or stovetop equivalent to translate.
- Scalded creamScalding means heating just until a rim of bubbles forms at the edge of the pan, around 180F by modern reckoning, not boiling; the book gives no temperature. Instructions to scald milk or cream are common in cookbooks of this period.
Lowney's Cook Book, published by the Walter M. Lowney Company of Boston, is a house book of the kind that chocolate, flour and baking-powder firms issued as promotion: the recipes are genuine and workable, and nearly every chapter finds a reason to call for the company's own product by name, here "Lowney's Premium" chocolate, which stands in for unsweetened chocolate. That two numbered chocolate ice creams sit side by side in the frozen-dishes chapter reflects how the section was built, with variants offered for the cook who wanted a richer or plainer result. Uncooked egg yolk stirred into a frozen mixture was ordinary practice in such books.