Lowney's Cook Book

The chocolate house's complete cookbook, c.1907 — from the value of food to the body through chafing-dish delicacies.

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Chocolate Powder (Teaspoon salt cup finely)

1 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup finely chopped almonds 5 egg whites Melt butter; add flour, chocolate, salt and milk; cook five minutes. Beat egg yolks until lemon-colored and thick; add sugar and almonds; when well blended, add chocolate mixture, and cut and fold in the beaten whites. Pour into a buttered mold, and steam one hour. Serve immediately with sugar and cream. 2 cups flour 2 tablespoons lard

For the Modern Kitchen

The text as printed here has been badly scrambled in transcription: the ingredient list is truncated at the top, and the "2 cups flour, 2 tablespoons lard" trailing at the end plainly belongs to the next recipe in the book, most likely a pastry. What survives is a recognisable steamed chocolate pudding built on a thick roux base, and the method is complete enough to follow if you supply sensible quantities.

A Little History

Lowney's Cook Book (1907) was written by Maria Willett Howard for the Walter M. Lowney Company of Boston, one of the American chocolate makers in the promotional cookbook trade; the point of such books was to put a firm's baking chocolate into as many pages of a household's repertoire as possible. A steamed chocolate pudding thickened with a flour-and-butter base and lightened with beaten whites sits squarely in that tradition, borrowing its structure from the English boiled and steamed puddings that dominated nineteenth-century dessert courses and simply swapping chocolate in for suet, currants or lemon. The almonds point the same way: ground and chopped nuts were a familiar source of richness, and a mold set over simmering water needed no oven at all. The mangled state of this particular page is itself a period artifact of a sort, showing how easily the ingredient lists of early twentieth-century cookbooks come apart in transcription.

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