Lowney's Cook Book

The chocolate house's complete cookbook, c.1907 — from the value of food to the body through chafing-dish delicacies.

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Plain Paste

Use same rule as for Chopped Paste. Chop lard into sifted flour; when thoroughly mixed, add salt and water to form dough. Chill; roll in rectangular piece; place butter which has previously been shaped, flattened, and chilled on middle of one side of paste; fold over other side, press edges together, and fold one end under and one end over butter, making six layers. Roll again into rectangle; fold in same way, and so continue three times. If butter begins to soften, roll paste in cheese cloth and place on ice until hard enough to roll easily. Be careful not to wet the cheese cloth. 1 pound butter

For the Modern Kitchen

This is a rough puff paste — lard rubbed into the flour for tenderness, then a solid block of butter laminated in by folding. The original leans on the preceding "Chopped Paste" entry for its quantities, so some numbers have to be supplied.

A Little History

Lowney's Cook Book (1907) was written by Maria Willett Howard for the Walter M. Lowney Company, a Boston chocolate manufacturer, and belongs to the era of promotional cookbooks issued by food firms — thorough general instruction wrapped around a house ingredient. Its pastry section reflects the American domestic-science tradition that ran through the Boston Cooking School: paste graded by richness, from plain pie crust up through "chopped" and "puff" pastes, each with its own rule. The use of lard in the flour and butter in the layers is characteristic and practical: lard shortens the dough and stays workable, while butter, which sheets well when cold, does the lifting. The insistence on ice at every stage is a reminder that this was written for kitchens with an icebox rather than mechanical refrigeration, where cold was a limited resource to be managed rather than assumed.

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