Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

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Apples with Rolled Oats

6 large apples 1 1/4 cups sugar 1 quart water 1 cup cooked rolled oats Cook the rolled oats. Pare the apples, and cook in a syrup of the water and sugar. Turn frequently. When the apples are done, fill the centers with cooked rolled oats. Boil down the syrup until of a rather thick consistency, and pour over the apples. Other left over cereals may be used in the same way.

For the Modern Kitchen

A thrift dessert built around yesterday's breakfast porridge: apples poached in sugar syrup, stuffed, and glazed with the reduced poaching liquid. The instructions leave out one step and understate another.

A Little History

Books published under titles like Meatless Cookery belong to a wave of American household writing that peaked around the food-conservation campaigns of the First World War, when meatless and wheatless days were promoted as a patriotic duty and cookbooks reorganised themselves around what could be left out — though such titles also appeared before and independently of the war, for vegetarian and economy reasons. The economy here runs deeper than the absence of meat: the dessert exists to use up cold cereal, and the closing line — "other left over cereals may be used in the same way" — is the whole point of the entry. Stuffed poached apples are often said to be a long-established dish, filled with sugar, butter, nuts or dried fruit; substituting a cupful of porridge makes a formal dessert out of what would otherwise have been scraped into the bin.

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