Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

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Baked Apples

6 medium-sized apples 1 lemon 1 cup water 3/4 cup sugar Wipe, core, and pare the apples. Put in baking dish with a slice of lemon on top of each. Make a syrup of the sugar and water. Pour around the apples, cover, and bake slowly until soft. Serve cold with cream or with one teaspoon jelly in the center of each apple. If desired, the apples may also be flavored with cloves by placing four cloves in the side of each apple at an even distance apart.

Sweet apples are always tough when cooked. The acid of the lemon helps to soften the cellulose of the apple. The skins of the apple break when baking because the steam of the apple must escape, therefore it forces an opening in the thinnest part of the skin. A line cut around the center of the apple will prevent its breaking. Basting apples while cooking makes the skin tender. Steamed apples are served for baking apples in many of the best hotels and restaurants, as they retain their color and flavor much better than when baked.

For the Modern Kitchen

A straightforward syrup-baked apple, with a page of the author's general notes attached. A few of those notes apply to unpared apples rather than to this recipe as written.

A Little History

Baked apples in syrup are old enough to have no single origin. The tone of the trailing notes, with their talk of cellulose and escaping steam, marks the author as a product of the domestic science movement, which had brought laboratory vocabulary into the kitchen manual. The closing observation that good hotels steamed their baking apples rather than baking them is a nice piece of trade knowledge: steam keeps the flesh pale and the flavour fresh, which matters when apples are held and served cold, as here.

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