Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeFruit Desserts › Stewed Apricots

Stewed Apricots

1/2 pound apricots 1/2 cup sugar Water Wash, and sort the fruit, cover with cold water, and soak several hours, or over night. Long soaking improves all dried fruits. Put in enough water to cover, and bring to the boiling point. Drain, and cover again with cold water. Cook slowly until apricots are tender, then add the sugar. Stir lightly, and cook five minutes. Serve cold.

To make an apricot sauce, force through a strainer, and add orange juice to taste.

For the Modern Kitchen

A simple dried-fruit compote from the era when dried apricots were a winter staple rather than a snack. The recipe's oddity is the double water — one blanch, discarded, then fresh water for the actual cooking.

A Little History

Dried apricots came into American kitchens in quantity from California, where commercial orchards in the Santa Clara and Sacramento valleys were drying fruit on trays by the late nineteenth century, and sulphured halves shipped and kept well enough to be a year-round pantry item. That reliability is why stewed dried fruits appear so readily in the dessert chapters of books like this one: a sweet course that asked nothing of the butcher and little of the season. The instruction that "long soaking improves all dried fruits" is the sort of blanket kitchen maxim these books traded in — rehydration lets the interior soften at the same rate as the surface, and cooks of the period often had little way of knowing how old or how hard their fruit was.

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