Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

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Baked Eggs

Spread a baking dish with butter, bread crumbs and chopped parsley and break the eggs into it, being careful to keep the yolks whole. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, pour over a little cream and dot with butter. Bake in the oven until the whites are set.

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain set of baked eggs — what French cookery calls oeufs sur le plat and older American books call shirred eggs. The recipe gives no quantities, temperature or time, so the numbers below fill the gaps.

A Little History

Baked or "shirred" eggs were a standard of hotel and boarding-house breakfast cookery on both sides of the Atlantic, though the origin of the American name is not settled. The method is often said to have appealed to institutional kitchens because a dozen dishes could go into the oven at once and come out at the same moment, which spitting fat and a skillet never allowed. Its appearance in a meatless cookery book reflects the particular usefulness of eggs to that genre: books of this kind served Lenten and fast-day cooks, vegetarians of the health-reform movement, and, in the years around the First World War, households told to save meat for the army. Eggs, cream and butter carried the protein and richness that the absent bacon would have supplied, and the parsley and crumbs did the work of making a bare plate look composed.

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