Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

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Bread-Raspings

All pieces of bread should be put aside in a clean bowl, and when enough has been saved to fill a good-sized baking-tin, they should be baked in a slow oven until they are a rich golden color all through. They should then be rolled on a pastry-board — a small quantity at a time — until they are fine enough for use, and then put into a biscuit-box with a well-fitting lid, which should be kept in a dry place. These raspings are used in many recipes, and a good supply should always be kept on hand. They are not only better and more easily digested than ordinary bread-crumbs, but they are much more economical, and are the means of every scrap of bread being utilized. As the rolling would scratch and dent the board and rolling-pin used for pastry,— and it is necessary to keep them perfectly smooth — a special rolling-pin and board should be kept for this purpose.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is a technique for turning bread ends into dried crumbs, and the whole thing hinges on drying them all the way through rather than toasting the outsides.

A Little History

Raspings take their name from the older practice of rasping — literally filing — the hard scorched crust off a baked loaf with a coarse grater or bread rasp, a step bakers used when loaves came out of a brick oven unevenly burnt. By the nineteenth century the word had come to mean bread dried hard and reduced to crumb, and English cookery books commonly distinguish raspings from breadcrumbs. The household economy argument — that not a scrap of bread is wasted — is made explicitly in the recipe itself. The claim that raspings are "more easily digested" than soft crumb reflects the era's confidence that browning and drying starch made it gentler on the stomach, an idea also behind the popularity of rusks, zwieback and dry toast for invalids.

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