Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeSoups › Cheese and Vegetable Soup

Cheese and Vegetable Soup

2 cups of stock 1 tablespoon of finely chopped carrots 1 tablespoon chopped onion 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons of flour 1 1/2 teaspoons salt 1 cup of scalded milk 1/4 cup grated cheese A little mace Cook the vegetables a short time in one-half the butter; add the stock and the mace, boiling fifteen to twenty minutes. Strain, and add the milk. Thicken with flour cooked in the remaining butter. Just before serving, stir in the cheese, and cook until it is melted.

For the Modern Kitchen

A small cream-of-cheese soup built on a strained vegetable broth. It comes together in under half an hour; the only real risk is overheating the cheese.

A Little History

Books titled Meatless Cookery are often associated with a wave of American cookery writing shaped by two pressures: the long-established Catholic and Anglican fast days, and the wartime food conservation campaigns of the First World War, when households were urged to keep meatless days so that meat could go overseas — though books of this title appear before the American wartime campaigns, so the causal link should not be pressed too hard. Soup was where that constraint bit hardest, since a great many nineteenth-century soup recipes began with a meat broth, even alongside the milk, cream and purée soups already in wide circulation, and a whole genre of substitutions grew up around the problem — vegetable stocks, milk and cheese, dried peas and beans, all pressed into service to supply the savoury depth and protein the meat had provided. This recipe is a plain example of the strategy: a carrot-and-onion base simmered for its flavour and then thrown away, a butter-and-flour thickening in the French manner taught in the cooking schools of the period, and grated cheese doing the work of the missing bones. Mace, now a back-of-the-cupboard spice, was standard seasoning for white soups and sauces well into the twentieth century.

← Milk and Cheese SoupSwiss Soup →