Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeBread, Etc. › Fruit Biscuits

Fruit Biscuits

2 cups of flour 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons butter 2/3 cup milk 2 teaspoons citron finely chopped 1/3 teaspoon cinnamon 1/3 cup seeded raisins finely chopped 4 teaspoons baking powder Mix the flour, butter, salt, milk, and baking powder the same as for cream biscuit.

Roll to one-fourth inch thickness, and spread with soft butter not included in the recipe. Sprinkle with sugar, cinnamon and fruit, and roll like a jelly roll. Cut in three-quarter inch slices, place in a buttered tin, bake in a hot oven fifteen to twenty minutes. Chopped raisins may be used in place of the currants.

For the Modern Kitchen

A rolled, filled biscuit dough — essentially a quick-bread cinnamon roll leavened with baking powder rather than yeast. The method is sound; a few of the quantities and terms need translation.

A Little History

Meatless cookery books proliferated in the United States during and just after the First World War, when Food Administration campaigns pressed households to save meat, wheat and fat for the troops and for shipment abroad; "meatless" in that context usually meant patriotic economy rather than principled vegetarianism, though the two audiences overlapped and publishers were happy to serve both. A bread chapter in such a book leans heavily on chemically leavened quick breads, which need no yeast, no long proof and no watching — the sort of thing a cook could turn out between other tasks. Fruit biscuits like these sit at the point where the biscuit and the sweet roll meet: the rolled-and-sliced spiral is the same construction as a cinnamon bun, but built on baking-powder dough, so the whole thing is mixed, rolled, sliced and baked in short order. The candied citron might be read as a gesture toward an older, more festive tradition, since a few teaspoons of peel could suggest a rich fruited bread at small cost.

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