Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

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Quince Sauce

1 quart peeled and quartered quinces 2 cups sugar 2 quarts peeled and quartered apples Water to cover Cook until tender.

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain stewed-fruit sauce of the kind meant to be spooned beside a pudding or eaten with cream. The proportions are loose by design, but two details in the original need translating.

A Little History

Quinces were a common dooryard fruit in Britain and North America well into the twentieth century, valued precisely because they are useless raw: too hard and too astringent to eat out of hand, but full of pectin and perfume once cooked, which is why the word marmalade descends through Portuguese marmelo, quince. Pairing quince with apples, as here, is the old household economy of the thing, the apples supply bulk and sweetness while a smaller amount of quince supplies scent and body. Quince largely vanished from American kitchens after mid-century, for reasons usually said to include the fruit's long cooking time and the decline of the trees themselves, though the causes are not well documented.

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