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Cakes and Pastry: Pouding
Plum pouding - Plum pudding. A Christmas pudding is called Pouding de Noël. Little round blocks of plum pudding, the centres cut out and filled with brandy butter, are called Puits d'amours à la Noël.
Pouding au riz-rice pudding; au tapioca tapioca; au sagou-sago; à la semoule-semolina; au macaroni - macaroni; au vermicelle - vermicelli; à la crème de riz-ground rice. These puddings when steamed are often called Gâteau instead of Pouding. À la Française, they are served with a fruit sauce. au pain-bread-and-butter pudding. Another pudding "au pain" is made of breadcrumbs, milk, eggs, lemon peel, etc. au pain bis-brown-bread pudding. aux abricots-breadcrumbs, cream, sugar, yolks of eggs and apricots, baked in a mould lined with paste. aux groseilles-a purée of gooseberries, with N breadcrumbs, eggs, etc.; baked in a mould lined with paste.
Pouding aux marrons-a steamed pudding of pounded chestnuts with butter, milk, eggs, etc. It is served with apricot syrup or jam. aux pommes-a pudding of alternate layers of breadcrumbs and stewed apples. It can be baked or steamed. With the addition of powdered ginger and spice it is called Pouding de pommes au gingembre; with ginger syrup and pieces of preserved ginger, à l'Indienne; or with almonds and currants, à la Suisse. aux figues-a boiled mould of dried figs, suet, milk, eggs, breadcrumbs, etc. Aux dattes is made in the same way with dates; aux raisins, with raisins. à l'ananas-Pineapple pudding. Whip sauce, with the pineapple syrup, is served with it. au gingembre-Ginger pudding. au citron-Lemon pudding. aux oranges is made in the same way as lemon pudding, with oranges instead of lemons. aux sultanes a light steamed pudding with sultana raisins. aux amandes-Almond pudding. aux noix de coco-Cocoanut pudding. à la crème--Custard pudding. à la vanille-a light steamed pudding flavoured with vanilla. au chocolat a steamed mould of sponge cake in ENTREMETS. crumbs, butter, sugar, eggs, chocolate, etc.
Made with coffee instead of chocolate, it is called Pouding Mocha.
Pouding au caramel custard pudding in a mould with burnt sugar. It is usually served cold, with burnt sugar sauce, or with burnt brandy and sugar, as Crème au caramel. à la marmelade-a steamed mould of flour, sugar, milk, eggs, marmalade, etc.; served with marmalade sauce. soufflé a very light steamed pudding; it is served with wine or marmalade sauce, or with a syrup of fruit. Served with stewed fruit, it is aux fruits. de cabinet, or à la Chancelière-Cabinet pudding.
This is also iced and served as Pouding glacé à la Chancelière. au biscuit de Savoie-a sponge cake with brandy, steamed in a mould with custard and dried cherries.
Bakewell-a batter of eggs, butter and sugar, flavoured with lemon or pounded almonds, over apricot or other jam, baked in a dish lined with paste. à l'ambre is Amber pudding-a purée of apples or other fruit, with yolks of eggs, baked in a dish lined with paste, covered with meringue. au miel-a boiled pudding of damsons cherries, with breadcrumbs, butter, eggs and honey. or à la Crécy is carrot pudding-a boiled pudding of chopped carrots, mashed potatoes, suet, flour, raisins and candied peel.
Pouding à la Berkeley-a suet pudding flavoured with lemon, served with a rum custard. à la Baronne a boiled pudding of suet, raisins, flour and milk. à la Portland-a rich boiled pudding of brown breadcrumbs, suet, chopped apples, ginger and dried fruits; served with a brandy whip sauce. à la Snowdon-a boiled pudding of suet, breadcrumbs, brown sugar and marmalade. à la Cowley-a pudding of mashed potatoes, almonds, sugar, eggs, etc.; it is served covered with whip sauce. à la Mousseline-a steamed pudding of lemon, sugar, butter, eggs, etc.; served with a sweet or whip sauce. à la Victoria-a pudding of flour, breadcrumbs, dried cherries, candied peel, cream, eggs, brandy, etc.; served with whip sauce. Another pudding of the same name is a vanilla custard, served with a compote of fruit in syrup. à l'Autrichienne-a rich raisin and marmalade pudding with brandy, boiled, and served with an orange brandy custard. à l'Italienne-macaroni and marmalade pudding. à la Française a breadcrumb pudding, covered with jam, and then with a whip of whites of eggs and jam. à la Saxonne-a steamed brown breadcrumb pudding with almonds and dried fruits.
ENTREMETS.
Pouding à l'Allemande, or à la Viennoise-a steamed pudding of bread cut in dice, almonds, raisins, sugar, custard, wine, etc.; served with whip sauce. à la Jubilé-a steamed breadcrumb and jam pudding, served with wine sauce. Made with raspberry or strawberry jam, it is sometimes called Savarin à la Nelson. au Paradis a steamed breadcrumb and apple pudding with brandy. à la St. Martin-a boiled pudding of mincemeat with rice and eggs; served with burnt brandy sauce. à la Genevoise-a baked apple and rice pudding. à l'Impératrice-layers of rice and jam, with custard, baked in a dish lined with paste. à la Gitana-layers of bread and jam, with yolks of eggs and brandy, baked in a mould. à la Metropole-layers of sponge cake, jam and custard, baked in a dish lined with paste, and covered with meringue. de neige-a breadcrumb and jam pudding, covered with whipped whites of eggs. à la Norvégienne-a mould of sago and fruit purée. à la Clarence-a sponge cake and custard pudding with brandy, steamed in a mould decorated with dried fruits or sweetmeats. à l'Espagnole-a sponge cake and custard pudding steamed in a mould lined with French plums. à l'Indienne-a sponge cake and custard pudding with ginger and slices of preserved ginger; ginger and brandy sauce.
Pouding à la Newcastle-a bread and custard pudding steamed in a mould lined with dried cherries. Made with cake instead of bread, and decorated with whipped cream coloured pink, and chopped pistachios and cocoanut, it may be called à la Louise. panaché au chocolat a steamed pudding of layers of a chocolate cake and of a plain light cake, served with a fruit sauce. à la Vénitienne-a cold custard and sponge cake pudding with layers of preserved fruits, set in a mould lined with jelly and decorated with fruit.
Diplomate-a rich custard with dried fruits set in a mould lined with jelly. à l'Alexandra-a steamed custard flavoured with vanilla. It may be served hot with a whip sauce, or cold with a macédoine of fruit. à la Reine Marguerite a rich custard with raisins, citron and preserved ginger. à la Kaisir-a rich almond custard steamed in a mould decorated with citron, etc. à l'Adolphe-a strawberry custard with chocolate cream and sponge cake in the centre, set in a mould lined with jelly and decorated with pistachios and cocoanut.
Nesselrode, or à la Nesselrode-Ice pudding.
Petits poudings à l'Alexandra are little sponge cake and custard puddings decorated with chopped ENTREMETS. almonds, cherries and angelica; served in an apricot sauce with brandy.
Petits poudings à la Florida are little light steamed puddings, garnished with dried cherries and served with a macédoine of fruit.
Petits poudings de collège are College puddings.
Petits châteaux au vin are Castle puddings served with wine sauce. They may also be served cold, the centres cut out, filled with preserve and cream and decorated with little handles of angelica, as Petites corbeilles de fantaisie.
Meringue d'oranges is a steamed orange and breadcrumb pudding covered with meringue. Croquettes de riz are rice croquettes; de crème de riz-ground rice; de semoule-semolina; de vermicelle vermicelli.¹ Croustade de riz is a fancy mould of rice, the centre filled with a cornflour custard.
Riz meringué rice, with milk, cream, sugar, whites of eggs, etc.; sprinkled with sugar and baked. à l'Impératrice is a rice cream served with a compote of fruit. à la Parisienne is a rice cream set in a mould lined with jelly and decorated with angelica and dried cherries; served with a compote of fruit in the centre covered with whipped cream.
Crêpe à l'Indienne is a flat cake of rice, browned on the top, and decorated with preserved ginger and cherries, etc.
Quenelles à la crème are small quenelles of a paste of flour, cream, eggs, etc. They are also made à la semoule with semolina.
Soupe dorée, or Pain perdu-small shapes of bread, soaked in milk, etc., dipped in beaten eggs and fried.
FRITTERS.
This is not a recipe page. It is a dictionary page, written for the person composing the dinner card rather than the person at the range, and it gives you a French name and a one-line gloss of what will arrive under it.
- Pouding is not a misprintPouding is the French spelling of the English word, and that is the joke running down the whole page. Almost everything listed — plum, rice, bread-and-butter, marmalade, carrot — is a British boiled or steamed pudding wearing a French name so it can be written on a menu.
- Suet is the structure, not a flavourA dozen entries here depend on beef suet: Portland, Baronne, Snowdon, the fig and date and raisin puddings. Suet works because it stays solid while the flour and crumbs set around it, leaving an open crumb. Shredded suet is sold in packets, vegetable versions included, and butter is not a substitute — it melts too early and the pudding goes dense.
- Steamed means hours, not minutesWhen the page says steamed it means a covered basin standing in simmering water, topped up, for two to four hours. A reader who sees “pudding” and reaches for an oven will get something else entirely. A pressure cooker will do the same job in roughly a third of the time and is the one genuine modern improvement on the method.
- A mould lined with pasteSeveral of these — the apricot, the gooseberry, the Bakewell, the amber — are built in a basin or dish lined with shortcrust, then filled and baked. It is a construction almost nobody assembles now, and it is the reason these read as puddings rather than tarts: the pastry is a container, not the point.
- Whip sauceThe phrase recurs and has dropped out of English. It means a frothed sweet sauce whisked over hot water until it holds air, nearer a sabayon than a custard, and served at once because it falls. Where the page says whip sauce, a custard will not give you the dish it describes.
- Hot and frozen under one headPouding de cabinet appears, and immediately after it the same thing iced as Pouding glacé à la Chancelière. The classification is by composition, not by temperature, which is why a single list can run from a boiled suet pudding to an ice.
What this page tells you about the household is that it needed French and did not necessarily have a French cook. The food is English; only the names are imported, and the book exists to supply them. The other thing worth noticing is how the variations are catalogued: Berkeley, Portland, Snowdon, Cowley, Victoria, Baronne, Chancelière. In a professional kitchen of this period a name did the work a written recipe does now. You did not tell the cook to add marmalade to a suet mould; you ordered a Snowdon, and the kitchen knew. A page like this is the index to that private language, handed to an employer who stood outside it.